Thursday, 20 December 2012

Do It Like A Dude In Androgynous Chic



The trouser suit has roller-coastered in and out of fashion for decades but this season the classic suit has gone urban. No longer an outfit for the office, trouser suits been given a casual twist. A-list celebrities have swept up the look with pieces in audacious geometric prints since every major designer from Muiccia Prada to Ralph Lauren dictated that the trouser suit was the only trend this season in their February shows.

The urban trouser suit is all about texture, pattern, cut and colour: Jacquard thrives through this trend and looks incredible when clashed with an array of fabrics to create a wilderness of textures. These edgier designs are for the fashion-savvy, providing total comfort to the city girl while sustaining ultimate style. The trousers are slim and ankle cut while jackets are either a cute crop or oversized with bunched up sleeves. Prada even saw some pieces cinched at the waist by thick black glossy belts while loud geometric prints were paired with matching belts that blended so well it could trick the eye. Florence Welch has been snapped masculine cut tapestry prints in eerie hues that sit perfectly against her dishevelled red hair while Rihanna chose paisley metallics in a more tailored style.

The urban trouser suit comes with a hard attitude and finished with tousled hair for an effortless aesthetic. Once a fashion faux pas, matchy matchy is now the only way to work it! It’s a bold statement but it’s about creating a signature and expressing a story through style. Your personality should bleed through like words.
Queen of urban chic, Nicki Minaj appeared on Alan Carr’s Chatty Man sporting the trouser suit in one all-over colour – that means strikingly bold and the colour scheme didn’t stop at the suit. Miu Miu’s audacious geometric prints are the epitome of urban chic. Perfect copies have since taken over the high street with fashion brands like Zara, Warehouse and even Marks and Spencer – there’s a first time for everything – hitting the bullseye with suits in soft wool fabrics.

Since Yves Saint Laurent kick started the look with Le Smoking in 1966, the trouser suit has come a long way. The look has remained androgynously chic however has become far more complex as sets come in a variety of prints and glistening embellishments. Haider Ackerman brought us some exquisitely cut ensembles which resembled the attire of Jedi Knights while Jason Wu and Stella McCartney brought us shimmering threads in a beautiful jacquard weave for their pre collections.

The trouser suit has always been about rebellion; women standing up and protesting against the female stereotype, embracing an androgynous look which oozes both power and authority. Marc Jacobs calls it ugly chic but this urban chick knows exactly what she wants and has all the confidence to take it. CEO of Whistles, Jane Shepherdson confessed to the Evening Standard to being a trouser suit addict explaining, “It’s about authority. If I feel I need ‘armour’ any day, then I will put on a trouser suit. It lets people know you’re serious and not to be messed with.”

Accessories are an important part of the look too. Pile them high in chains, studs and spikes and complete the look with an Alexander McQueen knuckleduster clutch bag. The iconic suit is best paired with an ankle boot or brogues although some may prefer a more controversial platform creeper, the choice is yours, just don’t forget socks are also a key component. A sense of urban culture lavished collections in September. See the Jean Paul Gaultier and Diesel shows for inspiration on how to style and accessorise an outfit into an urban abyss. And remember to keep one eye peeping out from under your brolly because street style is the best means for inspiration on the urban suit, and you never know who may be stealing ideas from your own choice of styling.

This season, the girly girl is replaced with a hard-core androgynous fashion siren.

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